Wilsons Promontory - Port Fairy 29/12 - 2/1

In spite of our trepidations in leaving Refuge Cove for Port Fairy, it was soon apparent that there were three things in our favour in embarking on this passage across some of Victoria’s most exposed coastline. For one, our AIS ship identification device was working perfectly, so we would have excellent information relating to the path of big ships along the way. Secondly, as the strong winds forecast for Eastern Bass Strait cleared from the west, our passage to Cape Otway and beyond should have light conditions, allowing us to maintain good speed over the ground. Then, as we neared South East Cape at the point of the ‘Prom, it was clear that, with Cran’s help, we had timed or rounding of the rugged rocks to a nicety. Conditions had finally eased and the tough time at night that we wanted to avoid could be removed from our thinking. It was a relief to be free of the lurking dangers of the ‘Prom, but then it would be “race on” to get in to Port Fairy before the forecast change swept in from the South West. With careful navigation around the ‘Prom having occupied both of our minds, the early hours became the early light of the new day before either of us could grab any sleep to speak of. At sea you get sleep when you are able.

Now you see it...

With the broad sweep of Central Bass Strait abeam of Port Phillip and Melbourne off to starboard we settled into the path to our next landfall, Cape Otway, that would be reached sometime before midnight. By day, Bass Strait had become benign although a swell that built to at least 5 metres on an oily sea had us climbing blue mountains where passing ships disappeared in between the swells as though a master conjurer was at work. Now you see them, now you don’t! We were making good time as the first outline of the Otway Coast and the Great Ocean Road formed on the starboard bow. By 2300 hrs we were abeam of the Cape Otway light that winked out its metronomic warning for hours to come. A little after midnight, the value of the AIS to our safety at sea was underlined when we identified a ship, the Neptune Leader, making west around Cape Otway out of Melbourne, which when clear of Otway, set a new course, directly for us. With a little help from the Melbourne Ship Approach station at Point Lonsdale we were able to contact the ship and ensure that they passed safely astern of us.

Now you don't......

Abeam of the Twelve Apostles et al, we remembered peering over the cliffs at this majestic site from the land looking in awe and wonder at the seas crashing on the rocks below. Now, out at sea from this coast of nightmares, darkness was not bliss, and although this was only a massage for our thoughts we were looking forward to there being more hospitable shores off our starboard beam. Out in the cockpit in the midst of the dog watch can be a fertile time for the imagination. Then, with the welcoming loom of the town of Port Campbell on starboard, and with a Nor-Easter rising as per the forecast, we made all haste in a dawn daubed with scudding high clouds as we made for Warrnambool.

Dawn on the last day of 2010.

Taking the reefs out of the mainsail.

Thankfully, our plan was working to a treat, and with the familiar row of Norfolk Island pines and the stoic lighthouse on the headland marking the approach to Port Fairy, we rounded the entrance beacon and made our grateful way into the Moyne River, and the security of the anchorage, just a stone’s throw from downtown Port Fairy. Max the genial Harbour Master took a break from his festive season leave and was at the there on the wharf to take our lines. Rates at the anchorage had escalated since our last visit, but at $25 a night including our own kitchen, laundry and bathroom facilities and ambience beyond belief, surely this was one of the best nautical deals going. Then in keeping with the season of goodwill Max insisted that we settle for only one night, when we were planning on staying at least two in this town of a thousand charms.

A welcome sight.... Port Fairy and no strong winds ..yet!

A matter of minutes later with Calista secure in the cosiest of havens all hell broke loose. Although the change was three hours and more away, the pre-frontal Nor-Wester charged in beyond anything forecast, and in swirling dust and soaring temperatures, applied a blow torch to the Port and environs. The Norfolk Island pines across the river bent like recurve bows and next to the port compound several major limbs were ripped from another giant of this stoic species as the wind screamed in. Our deliverance from this howling maelstrom had been a very near thing, and with a sense of immense relief we walked to the nearby headland of East Bay where looking back toward our recently covered path, spume, spindrifts and gale force winds had reduced everything to a field of white. How we would have coped had we been back off Warrnambool, we will never know. Cran’s priceless advice to us back in Refuge Cove had enabled us to escape a belting by a whisker. Along the nearby coast it blew up to 50 knots and at one stage Cookie was almost blown off her feet by a most fearsome of gusts. Whew!

So glad to be safely tied up.... just in time!

Before we left Townsville at the end of October, it was put to us that our long passage home might be a mournful thing with each mile and each passage bringing our odyssey at sea closer to its end. We saw it otherwise and were determined to make the most of every port and passage along the way, and now, by meteorological chance, we had stumbled into Port Fairy on New Year’s Eve. Little did we know that, with great fortune, we were about to experience one of the true highlights of our entire voyage.

Port Fairy was buzzing with anticipation, and brimful of visitors who had come from all points to be here for the month long Moyneyana Festival which had kicked off, at Christmas. Being the only vessel on the visitor’s wharf, we were probably the only revellers to arrive by sea! Up in the main street the thinly peopled thoroughfares of April had been completely transformed, and we calculated that back at Toorak in Melbourne there must be very few “tractors” left on the roads. In downtown Port Fairy, there were 4-wheel drives everywhere. The information centre suggested we take a Moyneyana program booklet and along with the other ten thousand or so visitors in town we should enjoy the fun. Considering our recent deliverance, this seemed a great idea to us!

The amazing street parade.. eat your heart out "Johnnies Pageant"!

We kicked off our last eve of an amazing year by abandoning ship’s food in favour of a delectable interlude at the Kung Fu Café where over some succulent Asian offerings we had a window seat as people streamed in for Moyneyana’s keynote event, the annual Port Fairy Street Parade, which we found had been capturing interest by both participants and viewers for over 60 years. There is something that suburbs rarely have, but country towns mostly have; that indefinable quality called community spirit. It is a priceless quality, and Port Fairy has it in spades. Agreeably supped, we joined the gathering throng and found that already the crowd was a dozen or so in depth along the thoroughfares. To us the premier viewing location was on the veranda of the Star of the West Hotel in the epicentre of the town square, and soon with thin bona fides and with deft negotiation we had balcony viewing of the marvel about to unfold. The parade was simply marvellous and with awards for “Best Float Community Service…etc” on offer it was clear that preparations for this event had been well under way since footy season.

One of the interesting floats in the parade. Not sure of the theme but everyone was having a great time!

As floats drew abeam of the crowd they drew thunderous acclaim from the multitude and shouts of “there’s aunt Clara” and the like from the small ones in the front who were already being indoctrinated in the value of this happening. There was creativity, homespun humour and the warm connections of country life there for all to see. Up on the balcony, like everyone else we got swept up in the occasion and hardly had a chance to reflect on where we had been just 24 hours astern. Just as we were marvelling at the length of the pageant, we realised that the procession had already completed a lap around the streets and was now coming past for a second time! It was like a two act play where act two was a re-run of act one. It was just like below us in the bar where the second drink was embraced as warmly as the first [note – the “Star” had a billboard outside advertising a “Husband Creche” suggesting that wives leave husbands plus currency in the care of the licensee whilst they embarked on hassle free shopping!].

The Borderers in concert at the Port Fairy Town Square.

As the crowd dispersed in the fading light, the village square opposite the “Star” filled with a gathering keen to kick on through the night. Adelaide folk band The Borderers were ready to rock the port and we happily joined the mob on the green. The Borderers, in a word were sensational, and their mix of Irish jigs and reels blended with bluegrass and a pinch of country, struck a harmonious chord with everyone lucky enough to be there. We just grabbed our ship’s deckchairs, joined the crowd and settled back as the concert unfolded. Above us a raw Sou-Wester had replaced the heat of the morning and between offerings from The Borderers, Cookie made conversation with Raelene from Port Campbell, who in typical local fashion offered her rug to share against the evening chill. We knew no one but felt totally at home.

Enjoying the great music of the Borderers... they now have two new fans !

As midnight approached the anticipation of the Community Fireworks grew to irrepressible levels. The Information Centre had suggested that the detonation location of the midnight pyrotechnics was a secret [probably to avoid revellers wandering into the ignition area] and that the spectacle could be enjoyed from anywhere in town. As in all country towns though, the locals knew where it was all unfolding and we just followed them to a grassed area on the edge of town where based on the crowd already gathered the location of this classified event was common knowledge. On the strike of the clock – probably, these days, the roll-over of the minute on a mobile phone – there were oohs and ahhs aplenty with sprinkles of applause as the skies lit up in a kaleidoscope of light and the booming explosions of rockets. Later, as the whiff of cordite drifted away along with the crowd on the evening breeze, we returned for a final set from The Borderers and were up and dancing with the crowd before wending our way back to our loyal little ship, lying contentedly alongside the pier. Weariness from our long passage across Bass Strait had gripped our beings, and our leaden eyes were ready for some alarm-free slumber. What a night it had been. What a year it had concluded! Thanks a million Port Fairy, from a couple of grateful seafarers!

Awesome crackers !

It was well past dawn when we dawned on Calista, to find ourselves by chance in the middle of the New Year’s Day festivities at Port Fairy. Already crowds were gathering for the Community Craft Market on the wharf precinct, where offerings from local bands and all the fun of the fair was gathering apace. We had to pinch ourselves, because here we were moored in the epicentre of the activities, and unlike those in the salubrious waterfront apartments we had corporate box views at a walk in price. The market was well under way when Andy, a local mechanic came on board to help us with some motor servicing to the strains of the Warrnambool Caledonian Pipe Band across the river. We were astonished that he would come on New Year’s Day, but as his wife explained, “we don’t care what day it is, we just get things done [!]” Try that in suburbia, we thought! Andy turned out to be one of those highly skilled, unfussed, and immediately likeable local blokes who seemed to be as relaxed with spanners as he was in yarning about things marine. In one of his lives he had been a pro fisherman out of Port Fairy, so he had lots to share about the waters hereabouts.

We had prime location at the wharf that was buzzing with markets, duck races and bands playing.

By lunchtime with the needs of our motor satisfied I had discovered a wondrous Indian café at the markets and Cookie had fallen upon a Nepalese stall amongst the multitude of offerings. She was now bedecked in a pair of new cotton pants with colours that might have shamed a Bird of Paradise. It was a market, most excellent, and laden with produce including potted offerings and home grown tomatoes we made our way back to our ship. Our only blemish was an attempt to join one of the guided tours of the Lighthouse on the headland, which could not be managed owing to the numbers who had lined up for the experience. The walk out to the island was, in any case, worth the effort and whetted our appetite for a sunset barbecue overlooking the Moyne River, just metres from our boat. Out at sea the winds had eased, but with the direction still holding in the Sou-West our departure from Port Fairy on the new high ridging in from the west would be delayed until it moved more to the south.

Colin joins the throng of swimmers competing in the Ocean swim.

With Monday January 3 as the likely departure time, this left us with Sunday as an opportunity to actively take part in more of Moyneyana. Ocean swimming has become a growth sport across Australia, and in the Ocean Road region, a three-event program sees opens swims held in January in Port Fairy, Warrnambool, and Port Campbell under the watchful eye of the local Surf Life Saving Clubs. The Moyneyana/Port Fairy leg was scheduled for Sunday January 2 at 11.00am, and with goggles and towels in hand we lined up at the Port Fairy Club to take part. Expecting maybe a sprinkling of swimmers, we were astonished at the numbers lining up for the swim, and it was obvious from the sleek suits that predominated that they took their sport very seriously indeed. In the end the 1.2 km swim was a fun thing to do, and because we take every opportunity to keep up our ocean fitness, we cruised around the course in comfortable style. It distresses your Bloggist to record that the female member of our crew nipped around the course in a little over 28 minutes, whilst just over four minutes later your chronicler strode purposefully ashore. It was a marvellous event to take part in and we would have liked to be around for the other “legs”.

Did the swim, got the T shirt and the swimming cap.

Later that afternoon whilst readying our ship for an early morning departure for ports to the west, we were completing a range of tasks to the strains of The Borderers’ excellent A Time for Change album when a check of the Moyneyana program revealed that at that moment The Borderers were playing live in the beer garden of The Star of the West. Why listen to a band on CD when they were playing live just up the road! Hence in yet another dissipative act we downed tools and enjoyed another session with this wonderful band, and again we were up on the dance floor whilst the sun set on another brilliant day in Port Fairy. Later we dragged ourselves away and made our way back to Calista, in time to complete our readiness for sea.

The Borderers lead singer Alex sings and dances on the table in the beer garden.

If the forecast held, the window of weather now presenting might see us all the way back to Kangaroo Island waters. If that were so, there might just be time to undertake a side excursion further to the west before returning to our home port at Wirrina. There were some wonderful people that we wanted to connect with and some favourite places to see before we headed finally for home. In the meantime, though, there lay a long and challenging 300 or so nautical mile voyage over some of Australia’s most dangerous ocean waters. It was no time to be lulled into complacency by the amazing experience that had been New Year in Port Fairy.